Thursday, 20 June 2013

Peru day 15 - Amantani & Taquile

We wake up at 6:20 after a deep sleep. The village of Alto Sancuyuni peacefully quiet as we gather up our belongings and head down to the kitchen for breakfast. We greet Lucila and Ruben and take our seats, and were soon presented with a delicious pancake accompanied by jam and dehydrated milk. We wash it all down with a cup of cinnamon and clove tea. 
After breakfast we gather the last of our belongings and bid a fond farewell to Lucila, and her children Daniel and Milady. Ruben leads us back to the port. We reach the port well before 7:30, stopping for a couple more photos. The weather is cloudy today, and we shiver in the cold morning air. Soon it is time for us to board and we shake hands with Ruben and wave goodbye. What a wonderful time we experienced on Amantani, our hosts were so genuine and hospitable. 
The trip to Taquile took only an hour. We disembark and walk slowly up the path that circles the island.

The steep narrow terraces on either side of the path are lined with stacked rock walls. Most the terraces were lying fallow or recently cleared of crops. 
Occasionally we would pass some of the traditionally dressed locals selling curios. The woman dressed almost completely in black, the men wore colorful waistbands and hats. Eventually we reached an impressive stone archway and stopped for a breather as Bruno from Puno explained a bit more about Taquile. He explained that the island was divided into 6 sectors, one for each distinct community. He also showed us the national flower of Peru, a beautiful fuscia coloured trumpet shaped flower that grew all over the island. Taquile is recognized as a world heritage site for its unique weaving and craft techniques. 

Moving on, we follow the path, and more and more houses come into view as we approach the town. We pass a 'power station' that generatws solar and wind power for the town which has no other supply of electricity. Soon we reached the main plaza, where there was a cooperative selling beautiful handmade woven goods. Interestingly, the men also knit.
First we head for the nearest restaurant and order coffee. Soon we are all feeling a bit more awake and head back to the plaza for some more sightseeing. 

Bruno explains that the men of Taquile wear coloured hats, red if they are married, red and white if they are not. They are really cute elf type droopy hats. The woman cover their faces when they are unmarried, as they are more shy. A handful of young children are in the plaza, dressed in little traditional outfits they look so cute. Today is apparently the anniversary of the opening of the local school and a celebration is being planned.


We made our way from the plaza. Bruno points out a lima bean field and a farmer working. 
We stop at a tap and Bruno explains that the island only acquired running water in the last couple of years. There are loads of bluegum trees on Taquile, apparently the seeds were sown by birds coming from the mainland. Bruno points out a village elder or councillor, dressed smartly with an important looking hat. 

We stop for lunch at a nearby restaurant. We are seated outside under a green shade cloth. The community apparently decides where tourists may eat based on a rotational basis. We are served a quinoa soup and an amazing fried trout and potatoes. Easily our best meal in the islands. Bruno tells us a story that at a particular festival young men may take a young lady hostage and they live together after a week and then the mans family pay the lady's family with coca, wool or other valuable goods. After this they are married. The father in law may also insist that the young man manually till his fields to prove he is not a lazy man. 
After lunch we walk slowly back to the port and by 12:30 we are on our way back to Puno on the boat.

The trip back to Puno passes uneventfully and we arrive back in the port around 3:30pm. There is a bus waiting and we waste no time and get straight on in order to escape the icy wind. Within 10 minutes we are close to the hotel but the bus has to stop due to a procession through the streets. We exit the bus and make our way to the hotel on foot, threading our way through the crowded streets. The procession is organized into groups, each with destinctive matching outfits.

We arrive back at the hotel, sort out a few things and clean up. Next we take a walk to the cathedral, following the procession to the plaza de Armas. We spend a bit of time inside the cathedral before heading back to the hotel.


We have an itinerary briefing at 6:30pm and receive our bus tickets to La Paz via Copacobana in Bolivia. After then briefing we head out for dinner at La Casona. We order an assortment of Peruvian dishes including ceviche, and another guinea pig is history.




No comments:

Post a Comment