In April 2026 we spent 11 days exploring Turkey.
Our Road Trip Itinerary:
Turkey Cappadocia Goreme Day 1
It was a beautiful sunny spring in Goreme. Nicki, Dave, and John had woken up and seen the hot air balloons rise into the sky. Werner had slept late until 07:00 and missed everything, even the call to prayer which woke everyone else. The group decided to go exploring the town. The streets were deserted except for a few people, it seemed that Goreme was also having a sleep in. We passed several tourist hot air balloon operators, restaurants, carpet shops, hotels. Beyond the town in all directions we could see the conical rock outcrops and the cliffs of eroded rock. The town seem to blend in like an extension of the landscape. We wandered up one of the main roads and took in the views. Nicki found several tour operators and send them WhatsApps to find out what hot air balloon tour options they offered and the cost. With our reconnaissance completed, we headed back to the hotel for breakfast at 8 o’clock.
The hotel breakfast was served by two Turkish ladies who spoke no English. We ordered coffees, and were soon served instant coffee in little disposable cups, disappointing. The breakfast consisted of a spread of ingredients, bread, French toast, boiled eggs, cucumber and tomato, polony, at least three different kinds of cheeses, chocolate cake, olives, honey and jams. We set about assembling our breakfasts and joking and chatting about our day. After breakfast we got ready to drive out to Derinkuyu.
We bundled into the Sandero and were soon navigating our way to the underground city with a little help from Google Maps. The journey was relatively uneventful, far in the distance we glimpsed snow capped Mountain peaks, occasionally we saw flocks of sheep, and lush green crops of grass growing on the landscape. Arriving in Derinkuyu, a relatively small and unremarkable town, we found the parking for the underground city. A local approached and asked us to pay for parking which we did, and then proceeded to try and sell us carpets from their shop, talk about a captive market. A short distance on we found the official ticket office and paid our entrance fee. There was already a large crowd of tourists queueing for entrance, this was going to be a claustrophobic experience…
Proceeding inside the cave entrance we steadily descended down a steep set of steps until we reached the first main chamber where it was easy to stand up straight. We could see rooms and further chambers leading off from here. Unfortunately we did not have a English speaking guide to explain what we were looking at. One could imagine people living down here, but it wasn't clear how they prepared food, where they got water or disposed of their waste. The cave felt cool and damp and surprisingly well ventilated which we later learned was due to special ventilation shafts that connected to the surface. We explored the chamber and took photos before going down another level. At some points there were holes in the floor, now covered with a steel grate, through which one could see yet more chambers. The whole underground was like a Swiss cheese, a network of tunnels, carved from the relatively soft tuff rock that was formed from volcanic ash. The tunnels and chambers seem to have been excavated and added organically without overall plan. We entered another chamber and there was a cavity carved into the floor, with a rock channel leading into it, that looked like it had been intended to hold liquid. We eventually crawled down a very low and narrow tunnel, about half way down there was a wheel stone that could be rolled to block the tunnel. It was definitely claustrophobic now particularly with so many visitors.
Going down to the lowest level was the most challenging as people were coming back up as well as going down and it was incredibly cramped. At the bottom was an impressive chamber with some carved pillars in the center of the room, Off to one side was a cave church, and further caves where it seemed there had been graves discovered. We also found a ventilation shaft and could see faint daylight high above. To think of the effort of carving out these tunnels, moving the dirt to the surface, it was a huge project that had no doubt taken many generations over centuries. What had these people been hiding from to go to these lengths?
We made our way back to the surface while exploring the remaining chambers and tunnels open to the public. Several tunnels had been closed off permanently, so the scale of the underground city must have been vastly greater than we could see on our tour.
After the caves we found a nearby restaurant and enjoyed a delicious freshly squeezed pomegranate juice which was sweet and a bit sour but refreshing. The other patrons chain smoked openly, which seemed the norm in Turkey.
In the late afternoon we drove to the open air museum, aiming to visit after the crowds had left. Unfortunately it was still extremely busy and when we arrived at the ticket office they said they were closing soon. We narrowly missed the cut-off time for the entrance, the ticket counter person explained in broken English that the tickets would be cheaper in a few minutes which was enough to confuse us into not buying tickets that would have allowed to explore until much later. We ended up exploring the area outside the open air museum and taking lots of photos of the landscape & the interesting rock cut caves until the sun began to set and we headed back to town.
For dinner we tried to get into a restaurant called Badem (almond) for sunset views but it was already fully occupied. Instead we had dinner at Pumpkin restaurant, ordering Testi Kebab & Turkish ravioli (Manti). The "Testi" method involves sealing a clay jug with dough and breaking it open at the table. The clay pot came on a plate with a flame burning on it for dramatic effect, and then the friendly restaurant owner came along and broke open the clay jug with a few strikes delivered with the back of a large knife and pouring out the contents on the plate. It was a delicious stew and the beef and mutton were tender, although we all agreed it could have used more vegetables. The Manti was also delicious, the yogurt based sauce was unique. Replete & satisfied we settled the bill and made our way back to the hotel to get a good nights rest.
Day 2 - Hiking Love Valley, Uchisar castle and Pigeon valley
(13km round trip hike)
We woke up around 5:45, and quickly put some warm clothes on before heading up to the balcony to spot hot air balloons. Dad and uncle John were already there, along with a lot more others than I expected. There must have been 80+ balloons in the air, the sight was astounding! It was still dark but we could see sunrise was imminent. As it got gradually lighter the whole town and valley was lit in a golden glow, with the balloons peacefully floating through it, occasionally lighting their fires to rise up a little. After a while they moved off and I tried to sleep a little more but to no avail…
At 8:00 (the breakfast start time) we met down at breakfast, our lady was still busy preparing but eventually we got some coffee. This morning she had made delicious fresh Turkish bread, I think it’s called katmer and is flaky like roti or naan. There were also some fried viennas, potato fries and bagel style breads along with the staples from yesterday.
Feeling full and carbo loaded we started our walk for the day, straight from our hotel. Our plan was to hike the love valley up to Uchisar, have lunch there and explore the castle and then hike back via pigeon valley. The weather was fantastic - sunny, and warmer than the previous day. We started by walking north, through the town and then following some jeep tracks for a while until we reached a viewpoint of the love valley, it was easily recognised by its phallic towers of stone. We wanted a group picture so fortunately a Swiss couple showed up to help us. Dad asked “make sure you get the penises in” 🫣 everyone laughed, the Swiss guy had a particularly loud strange laugh but it was good natured.
We made our descent into the valley and suddenly we were surrounded by lots of tourists, tour groups I guess, luckily they were quite slow and we were able to pass them and soon we felt we had the valley to ourselves again. Walking among the clusters of pillars, we realised how massively tall they were, both surreal and strangely organic. Weathered by wind and time, they seemed less like rock and more like something grown…
At one point we had to descend closer to the river, it was steep and tricky so we searched around for a while trying to find the safest place, some of us needing to go down on our bums. We were ready for a break and eventually found a large cave that the small river ran through, we stopped in the shade for a snack and a drink.
At some point we realised we had transitioned to the white valley. Compared to the dramatic pillars of Love Valley, White Valley is all about subtlety. The formations are lower, smoother, and more rounded, with dusty white rock that reflects the heat and light. It was an easier, more relaxed walk— less spectacle, more atmosphere — and the kind of place where the beauty creeps up on you rather than demanding attention.
We climbed and climbed, stairs and roads, to reach the centre. Compared to the vibe of Goreme, Uchisar felt rather dead. We could barely find an open restaurant. We kept ascending towards to castle and I spotted what looked like a nice place, I went in to ask if it was open, there was only a lady inside but she welcomed us and we saw that the place had a beautiful terrace. We found a spot with a view and ordered gozleme (one mince, one mozzarella and one cheese/potato). Gozleme is like a flaky pastry bread which is stuffed with various fillings. We ended with 6 baklava to share, they were a bit soft and very syrupy, very few nuts, not quite what we were hoping for…
After lunch Werner and I headed up to the castle while the gents relaxed in the shade. We paid our 400 TL entry fee and explored the castle. As we found with most attractions in this region, there wasn’t that much information, but we learned that it isn’t a castle in the traditional sense—it’s a natural rock fortress that’s been hollowed out and used for centuries. As early as the Byzantine period, people carved rooms, tunnels, and storage spaces into the soft volcanic stone, turning it into a defensive stronghold and refuge during invasions. Its real advantage was the view: from the top, you can see across much of Cappadocia, which made it easy to spot approaching threats long before they arrived.
We struggled a little to find the right trail, there were paths going in every direction but alltrails was a big help. Eventually we were comfortable we were on the right track. We spotted a tortoise on our way and then walked into interesting undulating mushroom shaped rock formations. Eventually we started spotting carved “pigeon holes” in the rock, used to house the pigeons that were used for communication, their droppings also used for fertiliser.
The path wasn’t too difficult and eventually we reached the outskirts of Goreme town. Here we walked along a small river with hundreds of pretty frogs all hopping around and mating. There were beautiful magpie birds in the trees.
We reached our rooms at the Ayaz Stone house and took a good long rest before heading out to find dinner. The restaurant (Badem) we had in mind didn’t take reservations so we aimed to arrive by 6pm as they had advised. We climbed up the stairs of a cave hotel and found a delightful terrace with a view over the town and picked an outside table. We ordered a variety of Meze: beet mutabal, muhammara and an avocado dish mixed with feta (the only one we didn’t enjoy) accompanied by beautiful bread, local cheese, olive oil, zatar, and another complimentary dip that I think was celery and yoghurt.
We watched the sun go down and took our photos, then moved inside for mains. We ordered an incredibly spicy soup called sulu kofte, which had small meatballs and potato in it, a vegetarian lasagne with garlic yoghurt and salad, and the highlight of the meal, a royal ottoman dish called mutancana, which had tender lamb, dried fruit including incredible figs, and blanched almonds, served with tasty rice. Everything was very good and we finished with a variety of teas, later followed by Chivas and a chat in our rooms before bed.
Day 3 - Hiking Ihlara valley and visiting Selime Cathedral
We woke up a little later and Werner, Dad and I had a quick walk into town to find proper coffee. We found kings coffee owned by a very friendly older guy who welcomed us. Dad and I had Turkish coffee and Werner a cappuccino, all beautifully served including biscuits. The owner told us we could pay with card, cash, or a hug…
We walked back and found John for breakfast, enjoying crumpets and honey, boiled eggs and nice bread. We got ready and then drove around 1:20 to Ihlara. On the way we spotted incredible snow topped mountains not even that far away, this is apparently Mount Hasan (Hasan Dagi), a dormant volcano that rises to over 3,000 meters and has a distinct double-summit.
We drove through the very pleasant Ihlara village, descending a little into the already visible canyon. We found a park near the trailhead and headed off on foot, paying EUR 15 per person and then descending many steps to the trail.
This valley/canyon already felt quite different from those near Goreme, much greener, shadier and pleasantly cool. A wide river was rushing fast along the trail. As we walked along we found people had artistically placed carvings and decorations, including a water tap converted into a man, complete with clothes. Cute cats again met us on the path and demanded to be petted. We reached a large cave and explored before continuing. The trail was well maintained and had stairs and rails where needed.
Soon we reached the first cave church called kokar kilise, which required us to climb quite a few stairs to visit. It was a small sized church with frescoes from the 9th to 11th century, sadly they were quite damaged and graffitied but would have been beautiful.
We reached a home in the rock, this one complete with wooden door and ladder and stopped for a pic, then visited the Agacal kilise (church) which was slightly larger with a domed ceiling and even more damaged frescoes. We then reached a large rest area and climbed up to the serpent church, which apparently has frescoes on one wall showing four women being punished by snakes…
Some way further we reached a restaurant with beautiful seating areas set up with Turkish tapestries, with guinea fowls walking around. The birdsong on the hike was so lovely. Finally we reached Bellisirma village where a guy who spoke good English enticed us into his restaurant. We had read that Bellisirma is known for its river trout so we all ordered that. It came with roasted pepper, tomato and a mushroom, and freshly baked bread, plus we ordered a salad and a plate of chips to share. The trout was grilled in the wood fired pizza oven and pretty delicious.
We asked the guy if we’d be able to find a taxi at our next stop, Selime, as this was a long one way hike. He offered to pick us up if we didn’t come right and gave me his number. His name was Karim and he told us he only worked at the restaurant.
We continued on, the path flat and mostly downhill. We reached some stairs leading to a mosque in the rocks so Werner and I decided to check it out while the others continued. It was really really steep to reach the mosque, with no proper stairs so much more slippery. But it was pretty cool - a two story mosque cave with stairs carved into the rock to reach the upper chamber which even had a carpet in it.
I slipped on the way back down, my shoes ineffective. And we took some time before we caught up with the others. We were still walking along the river and things started to open up, revealing some farmlands, animals, more blossoms and a number of vines. Eventually we saw amazing conical rock formations and knew we were close to Selime.
We found the road and then followed it another 500m to the Selime cathedral. At this point we had walked a total of 12.28km. At the entrance a guy approached us offering advice, which was useful because we didn’t know we could use our same EUR 15 hike ticket here… he offered to guide us, saying “I help you, you help my kids”… we agreed on a 15 Euro guiding fee, his English was reasonable enough with an odd American sounding accent, and he told us he lived right by the cathedral.
We took a break and had some rather delicious ice creams and then rejoined him, his name was Gokhan. First he took us to the Virgin Mary church named for a painting of the virgin, though it is said she died in Ephesus. He showed us a viewpoint with great views of the conical rock formations and the surrounding towns. Then lead us up a steep slippery path to the church entrance.
Apparently this church is smaller and less ornate than some of the more famous sites, but still worth a stop. Inside, we found Greek inscriptions, and modest frescoes depicting Mary, with soft colours that have faded over time, which still give a good sense of the religious artwork from the period.
From here we climbed up to the main attraction, it looked really high and hard to reach but with well constructed steps it wasn’t as bad as expected. Gokhan pointed out the kitchen, monastery, church and cathedral and then left us to our own devices so he could find his next group. The scale of the site was most impressive, difficult to describe. I felt like an adventurer exploring... Moving through the site felt less like visiting a single structure and more like entering a compact, self-contained settlement.
The largest and most imposing space was the cathedral itself—a cavernous, high-ceilinged chamber cut with surprising geometric precision. Massive pillars were left standing to support the roof, giving the space a structured, almost basilica-like form despite being entirely hewn from rock. Along the walls, shallow niches and platforms suggested former liturgical use, while faint traces of soot hinted at later occupation, likely by caravans or soldiers. A raised apse-like section at one end marked the focal point of worship, though its decorative elements had long since eroded.
Clustered around and above the cathedral, the monks’ quarters were carved into smaller, interconnected rooms. These spaces were functional rather than ornate—low ceilings, simple benches cut from the stone, and narrow openings for light and ventilation. The layout felt intentionally compact, with passageways linking rooms in a way that suggested both communal living and a degree of seclusion. Some chambers appeared to have served as dormitories, while others likely functioned as private rooms.
In one section, a darker, more enclosed chamber bore the marks of a kitchen. Blackened ceilings and walls indicated prolonged exposure to smoke, and shallow depressions in the rock suggested hearths or cooking pits. Adjacent areas were more open, possibly used for shared meals or daily gathering, with long stone benches running along the sides.
Toward the base of the complex, larger, rougher-hewn chambers had served as stables. These areas were less refined, with broader entrances and tethering points carved into the walls. Their position closer to the valley floor made practical sense, allowing easier access for animals while keeping them separate from the monastic living spaces above.
Connecting all of these areas was a network of narrow tunnels and stair-like corridors, some steep and worn smooth by centuries of use. These passageways created a layered circulation system, allowing movement between levels without exposing inhabitants to the outside. In places, they opened suddenly onto terraces or viewpoints overlooking the valley, offering both light and strategic vantage points.
Back at the entrance Gokhan had arranged a taxi back to Ihlara for 600 TL. We hopped into a battered old vehicle and sped off, seeing the incredible snow covered mountains again, even closer this time, the driver kindly stopped so we could take photos. We reached our car with no issue and then started the drive back to Goreme.
After a shower we headed out for dinner, intending to try the wood fired BBQ restaurant we had spotted on our way. They had space and we saw this was a proper steakhouse, with well aged meat on display. At a table nearby we heard Afrikaans being spoken, apparently we weren’t the only South Africans… We had beers, pide (Turkish pizza), a burger and lamb chops, all the food was pretty good. Knowing we had a really early start the next day, we didn’t linger. But while the gents were paying, a guy (possibly owner?) came to chat to us, guessing we were British. He told Werner that he looked like a Hollywood star, with his shaved head and blue eyes… It was rather odd but either he was being genuinely kind or he was hitting on Werner (he did ask if I was his wife).
We hit the sack early after a truly fantastic, adventurous day.
Day 4 Hot Air Balloons and Goreme Open Air Museum
The alarm clock rang at exactly 4 am, although we had been awake for a while anticipating the adventures for today. We quickly dressed and made our way down to the ground floor and soon after we met the driver who ushered us to the waiting mini bus. We set off into the cold darkness of the early morning, the city of Goreme mostly sleeping except for those venturing out for balloon rides.
Soon enough we came to Voyager hot air balloon company venue, and joined the queue to settle our bill. We paid EUR 170 each, including a EUR 10 discount for settling the balance in cash. There was a small breakfast on offer and we all had a coffee and bite to eat to help us wake up. There were about 50 tourists excitedly looking forward to the ride. One of the staff announced that there was five minutes to go, so we wrapped up our breakfast and made ready to go.
We piled into yet another mini bus and set off for the launch site and soon we could see half inflated balloons illuminated by the glow of the propane burners. The mini bus dropped us off right next to the balloon and we stood around shivering in the cold & waiting for instructions and taking lots of photos. The atmosphere and excitement was tangible as we climbed into the basket, we were five in a compartment in a mid sized 20 person balloon and had just enough space to move around a bit.
A Turkish man introduced himself as Mustafa and he would be our guide, and he also introduced the pilot Ali. They explained the procedure for safe landing, which involved hunching down and grabbing the rope loops inside the basket. They continued to fire the burners and fill up the balloon in preparation for takeoff. After a few more minutes they disconnected the external propane tank, and untied the balloon from the trailer and we began to drift weightlessly into the sky above. All around us we could see balloons on the ground getting ready for takeoff and countless more in the skies above. All the while we were snapping away with our cameras and capturing the beauty of the moment.
As we approached a tall mountain we saw a shape running over the landscape and as it became clearer we realised it was a wolf and its pup. Mustafa announced that we would now climb to 800 metres and started to inflate the balloon and we began to ascend rapidly. From the heights we could see almost all of Cappadocia, we could see the love & pigeon valleys we had hiked, Uchisar castle, Goreme town, distant towns & lakes all bathed in the soft glow of the early morning light. Only a few other balloons were at our altitude or higher now. After several minutes enjoying the high elevation the pilot started our descent and several passengers remarked they could feel their ears popping.
Once we were low enough the pilot flew the balloon across the love valley and just meters from the ground below. We waved to crowds of people below watching the balloons, taking photos, riding on horses, vintage cars & 4x4s. Now that the balloon was travelling close to the ground we could see just how fast we were travelling. We came within meters of the fairy castle outcrops and it seemed like we would collide but the pilot knew exactly what he was doing and we glided past.
In the distance we could see a large open area where the balloons were landing and the bakkie’s with trailers manoeuvring furiously to receive the balloons. Soon we were descending to the landing area and on the first landing attempt the balloon was just too low and hit the edge of the trailer before correcting. Otherwise the landing was smooth and we didn’t even need to grab the straps. Mustafa demonstrated how the balloon was deflated by pulling on a rope and we could see a cover at the top of the balloon open up to allow the air to escape. Mustafa then showed us the 360 panoramic photos & video he had taken with a special camera which we could buy.
Once it was safe we climbed out of the balloon and gathered around for champagne (alcoholic and alcohol free). Mustafa explained this was the tradition going back to the very first balloon flight in Paris. We said cheers in Turkish “şerefe” and enjoyed the special moment. Then we received our certificates and we boarded minibuses that took us back to our hotel (Unfortunately I left my cell phone in the minibus and had to go back to the company offices to get it back which wasted some time).
After breakfast at the hotel we got in the rental car and drove to the Göreme outdoor museum park. We parked and then walked to the ticket office to pay our entry fee. There was an audio guide available with a phone app but it was €20 which was a bit much on top of the entrance fee. Despite arriving so early in the morning the tourist hordes had also found their way.
Set in the honeycombed cliffs of Cappadocia, the Göreme Open Air Museum feels less like a museum and more like a walk through a living monastic landscape carved directly from stone. Sunlight washes over soft volcanic rock, illuminating doorways that once led to quiet devotion, now opening onto some of the most remarkable surviving examples of Byzantine art.
Our first stop was to the St Basil Church. Immediately inside the cave church, a skeleton was on display lying in a shallow grave cut into the rock, one of several lying parallel to each other.
The highlight was the Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise) which has an additional fee, it is named for the minimal light that seeps inside, a feature that has preserved its vivid frescoes. Step through its modest entrance and you’re suddenly surrounded by richly colored biblical scenes: deep blues, reds, and golds that seem almost untouched by time.
Nearby, the Apple Church (Elmalı Kilise) offered a more intimate experience, with charming, slightly naïve frescoes that feel personal and immediate.
The Snake Church (Yılanlı Kilise) stood out for its darker themes, including striking imagery of saints confronting evil, while the Buckled Church (Tokalı Kilise), just outside the main cluster, impressed us with its size and narrative complexity, walls covered in sequential biblical scenes like a painted manuscript brought to life.
Wandering between these rock-cut sanctuaries, we passed refectories with long stone tables, kitchens blackened by ancient smoke, and cells where monks once lived in quiet isolation. The landscape itself was as compelling as the interiors: soft, sculpted formations shaped by wind and time, often referred to as fairy chimneys, create a surreal backdrop that feels almost otherworldly.
A visit here isn’t just about ticking off chapels, it’s about absorbing the stillness, imagining the rhythms of monastic life, and witnessing how art and faith were quite literally carved into the earth.
For lunch we had doner kebab at a restaurant near our hotel. We shared a chicken and a meat doner, served on Turkish bread. They were delicious and the service was good.
For the afternoon we planned hiking in the rose and red valleys and to end with sunset views. We drove out to the car park and found the start of the trail. Looking down red valley we could clearly see the reddish pink colour rock layers below and the lighter layers above. Making use of AllTrails, an app for following trails, the trail led downhill and was a bit steep in sections so we had to take it slow to avoid falling.
We walked on and eventually reached the end of the valley, and then had to climb up a steep hill. On the other side we could see the some more farms amongst the rock outcrops with caves carved into them. The most impressive was the place called the “cave house” which was a large rock outcrop that seemed to be full of caves carved into it.
Soon after we reached the start of the rose valley and ascending back up to our starting point. It was good to have the AllTrails App as we frequently took the wrong path and had to come back to the correct route. We passed some cave churches cut into the rock. There was a photo shoot taking place inside one with a lady posing and so we didn’t stop for long. Further along we caught our breath next to the road on a small wine farm before making a steep climb of 100m near vertical ascent, the views were reward enough. We reached the crusader castle cave and explored the inside before making our way past a crowd of Koreans at the nearby restaurant. In the valley below we spotted a line of horse riders making their way along a trail that eventually met up with us, it looked like a challenging ride.
As the sun continued to get lower, the colours of the valley became ever more beautiful and we stopped frequently to take snaps. Exhausted we finally reached the viewpoint at the top and then settled in for the sunset and shared a bag of almonds and a bottle of pomegranate wine with glasses we’d bought. More and more people arrived and soon there was a big crowd assembled all taking photos with the beautiful scenery.
After sunset we had dinner at Zukra Italian restaurant which offered delicious home made pasta. We had a spicy arrabiata with chicken, salted beef cream and Parmesan, chicken pesto and chicken cream and Parmesan. The pasta sauce was packed with flavour and the home made noodles had thicker al dente consistency. The restaurant was tiny and so they didn’t have a big kitchen, we ate out of disposable bowls with wooden utensils (disappointing). For desert we shared a tiramisu (alcohol free) and a magnolia. Replete we settled the bill and headed for the hotel for a much needed rest after a long and active day.
Day 5 Horse Riding and Hamam
Another day another early wake up… this day Werner and I had booked a sunrise horse ride. Cappadocia is known as the land of beautiful horses. When the alarm went off at 4:30 I really questioned my own sanity… we arrived at the Gorkhem horse ranch near Cavusin at 5am. It was dark, there was no reception area and the guy saddling the horses pretty much ignored us. It was also quite cold, around 5 degrees C and we wished we had worn more clothes.
Soon a bus arrived with 9 more tourists and things were looking up. We paid EUR 35 each for our 2 hour ride and then were allocated horses. I got a beautiful white horse with an unpronounceable name, Werner a pretty brown stallion with white nose and feet, called Martin. A small family of three went off on a private ride, leaving six of us - a Roman man and woman who made it clear they were NOT a couple, and a Vietnamese pair who I assumed were. Our guide was Mahmoud, a young guy with perfectly gelled black hair, I grew to like him more as the morning went on…
The awesome thing was that all around us, hot air balloons were being filled and taking off, creating a magical atmosphere. Mahmoud led us to a lookout point from where all of the balloons could be seen, and took great photos of each of us with the gradually lightening sky and masses of balloons behind us.
We continued on our gentle walk, and he encouraged us to kick our horses to keep moving, and for Werner to discourage Martin from eating. A faithful black dog called Efes (meaning Ephesus, but also the name of the local beer) ran alongside us. We entered the love valley with its phallic rock formations and stopped for more awesome photos.
We ambled along gently, the rising sun starting to warm us, and just enjoying the experience. Soon Mahmoud started to show off, rearing his horse and climbing up hills. At one point he literally stood up straight on the saddle while his horse continued to walk, incredible. He hopped off, started playing some Turkish music and videoed us walking along.
We entered the white valley and came across a large group of other riders on the horizon, a few balloons still floating behind them. Then we got photos taken at the viewpoint with Efes the dog posing just as nicely as the horses. Mahmoud really put a lot of effort into the photos and videos. He led us back to the ranch, allowing a little trot here and there as the horses were keen to return to home and presumably breakfast!
We also returned ‘home’ to showers and breakfast, and met up with the others for a lazy breakfast with lots of tea and coffee. We had no major plans for the day so lingered and enjoyed. After a small nap we tried to meet up again, and the heavens started to open with rather un-forecast rain! We ducked into the kunafici, hoping to try kunafe but apparently that was only served after four… so we had delicious coffees along with the best (pistachio) baklava of the trip so far, as well as pistachio crusted sweet treats, an interesting walnut with grape molasses treat and a chocolate hazelnut one.
Fuelled with caffeine and sugar we walked around and found a Hamam/spa for later. Then as it started raining again (and getting quite cold!) we ran into the kebabs and mezes restaurant for a small lunch. We had lentil soup, eggplant and meatball kebab, mushrooms with mozzarella, delicious bread and salad, followed by the standard (complimentary) Turkish tea to wash it all down.
After lunch we drove to the Hamam (Tantan spa) to ensure we didn’t get caught in the rain again. We were offered tea on the terrace of the hotel, and then were lead downstairs where the ritual began in our private spa: clay face masks dried by fans, followed by sauna, then into the Hammam bath where Ugandan masseuses first exfoliated us, then covered us in wonderful thick warm soap bubbles and then massaged away all of our aches and pains. It was a great experience and we left feeling warmed through and thoroughly relaxed. It took close to two hours and we paid 30 Euros, very good value.
Feeling exhausted from too many early starts, we headed back to the hotel to pack and sleep.
Day 6 Road to Egirdir
Some of the group got up early to drive up to a viewpoint for last sunrise balloon photos. I needed a bit more sleep, but woke up refreshed and decided to go for a run through town, challenging considering how hilly it was. Weather was perfect.
We had a last breakfast, this time our lady even spoiled us with stuffed peppers and meat pide (Turkish pizza). We tipped her, thanked her and said goodbye. By 8:30 we were on the road for our first big driving day. We headed South towards Ihlara again, the snow capped peaks of Hasan Dagi looming in the foreground.
We passed small towns and larger cities, the surrounding area becoming gradually flatter and more agricultural. We read that the main crops of the region were sugar beet, lucerne and maize. We stopped at a town called Sultanhani for a drinks break. This town has a well known caravanserai, a construction built in 1229 during the Seljuk period under Sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I, so it is almost 800 years old. It was one of the major caravanserais on the Silk Road route across Anatolia, where merchants and travellers could safely sleep, store goods, feed animals, and shelter from bandits or winter weather. The entrance gate was impressive and the entire structure was surrounded by massive stone walls. We decided not to pay the 100 Lira entrance fee, and continued on our journey.
Our next stop was a big city called Konya, one of the spiritual hearts of Turkey and home to the Sufi branch of Islam. As we arrived there seemed to be an airshow of sorts with incredible jets flying overhead. We watched for a while before continuing.
Then we climbed the stairs to the roof terrace of the most recommended restaurant: “Konya Sufi Restaurant Geleneksel Konya Mutfağı”. It was right next to the museum and mosque, with great views. The weather was perfect for sitting outside. We enjoyed the opportunity to try some new local dishes: kofte tirit (meatballs with bone broth and yoghurt over toasted bread), hunkar bengedi (roasted eggplant and beef) and bread salma (made by roasting sliced tandoori bread with butter and meat fat, with roasted beef). These were served with a wide variety of beautiful sides, salads and more bread! The eggplant was my favourite. We finished with kunafe: a rich, hot dessert made from fine strands of shredded pastry layered around melted, stretchy cheese, then baked until the top turns crisp, soaked in a light sugar syrup with crushed pistachios scattered over the surface and a square of decadent vanilla ice cream on top. We all enjoyed it and washed it down with complimentary tea.
We drove another 2h40 past lakes, fields and mountains and neared lake Egirdir. Here we saw many apple trees in blossom. We drove through the main town and onto a peninsula onto the lake, where we spotted a busy market. Once through that we found our home for the night, the Fulya pension. The wind was whipping and the weather had turned quite a bit cooler. Our receptionist spoke no English but google translate worked just fine. He showed us to our rooms and Dad and Uncle John got lovely lake view rooms.
Day 7 Egirdir to Fethiye
Waking up in lake Egirdir, it was still breezy and cool but Werner and I decided to go for a run, since the setting was beautiful and the weather was at least quite clear. At 8:00 after a shower we climbed to the terrace for breakfast, the breakfast room was full (one large seat occupied by an elderly sleeping man), we initially had to take a table outside. The breakfast was really interesting, our host (same guy who was at dinner the previous night, who spoke good English) showed us poppy seed paste (“shepherds food”, good for energy), tahini, grape molasses, a variety of nuts, seeds and berries, including things like oleander and carob we’d never tasted before. The spread also included proper coffee (yay!) and the usual staples of bread, boiled eggs, cereals, tomato, cucumber and olives.
We arrived at our villa named Ezel Hanim in the centre of Fethiye and were met by a young lady, who gave us keys and not much more instruction… The villa was massive and exceeded our expectations, 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, a modern kitchen, pool, BBQ and pizza oven. We popped to “Migros” supermarket, happy to be able to self cater a little, and stocked up on all the necessities. After a delicious home cooked lunch including chicken wings, we headed out exploring.
Day 8 Ancient cities and beautiful gorges
Our first plan for the morning was a ten minute drive to Calis beach, due a walk or run. We arrived and found it partly cloudy and pleasant, mostly deserted close to 7am. The beach was brown and pebbly, but extremely long, with a nice boardwalk. We first walked towards to bird sanctuary and saw some wetlands but not too many birds. Then ran 4.5km all the way past the end of the boardwalk, past many many cafes and restaurants, then some villas and eventually a very fancy hotel.
We had a yummy breakfast of Turkish bread and fried eggs, plus cereal, yoghurt and strawberries and then set off around 8:30 on our adventure for the day.
First we headed to Tlos, which was one of the oldest and most powerful cities of ancient Lycia, built high on a rocky hill above the fertile Xanthos Valley. The site had been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age, and over the centuries it passed through Lycian, Persian, Greek, Roman and Byzantine hands, each leaving traces layered across the hillside.
Approaching the ruins, the first thing that dominated the skyline was the acropolis — a fortress-like crown of weathered stone walls and Ottoman remains perched on the summit. Some agile goats were clambering over some ruined walls. Beneath the acropolis, great Lycian rock tombs had been cut directly into the cliff face, their temple-like façades staring out across the valley for more than two millennia.
What made Tlos especially striking was its setting. Snowy peaks hovered in the distance while green farmland spread below, giving the ruins a sense of isolation and grandeur. Bright red poppies bloomed all around us, beautiful. After viewing it all, a decent walk, we finished in a local shop for fresh squeezed orange and pomegranate juice. The owners were so friendly and insisted on dousing our hands with lovely lemon scented, refrigerated hand cleanser.
We first followed tourists over the rocks and icy water and found a lovely little waterfall, we took photos all around. At this point, some people had braved crossing the river. We wanted to do the same but it was deep and rapidly flowing. After crossing some rocks we decided to turn back, especially after seeing a lady fall in. The water was freezing cold and we didn’t want to spend the rest of the day wet… apparently you can walk even 1.5km into the gorge, but we had probably visited at the wrong time (spring) as this region had had a lot of rain, plus recent snow melt.
We exited the gorge, crossed the river and found a lovely table with a view, where we again enjoyed a lovely trout lunch, finished with Turkish tea.
The ruins spread across a broad hilltop, where weathered stone monuments stood against open countryside and distant mountains. Xanthos was less dramatic than Tlos in its scenery, but more monumental in atmosphere — a place filled with broken pillars, tombs and inscriptions that hinted at lost grandeur. The city became famous in antiquity for acts of collective resistance. According to ancient historians, when the Persians invaded in the 6th century BC, the people of Xanthos chose death over surrender, burning the city, killing their own families and fighting to the end. Similar stories were later told during Roman civil wars, giving the site a tragic, almost legendary reputation.
Among the most remarkable remains were the Lycian pillar tombs and funerary monuments that blended Greek and local styles. The famous Harpy Tomb once stood here, its sculpted reliefs now housed in the British Museum. Nearby stood the reconstructed Nereid Monument, originally a lavish tomb resembling an Ionic Greek temple. These monuments revealed how Lycian rulers adapted Greek artistic influences while maintaining their own identity. We most enjoyed a massive pillar, inscribed with the ancient Lycian script.
Roman rule later transformed the city, Werner and I walked through the remains of a theatre built into the hillside, Byzantine basilicas, paved streets and fragments of civic buildings. Much of the stonework lay scattered and sun-bleached, giving the site a quieter and more solemn feeling.
We drove back to our villa for a well earned rest and after that, wanted to find a spot for late afternoon photos. We started at the Amyntas tombs (also Lycian), set high in the hills above Fethiye, the views were pretty good. Next we drove to a viewpoint where many people had parked, which offered even better views of the town, bay, harbour and boats, and surrounding mountains. The weather had mostly cleared and it was stunning.
For dinner we headed into the old town of Paspatur to a quaint place called Lokanta, we sat inside as it was chilly. The decor was eclectic with pottery, mirrors, old photos and odds and ends on the walls, the waitresses were tattooed but very friendly, the kitchen was tiny but the food excellent. We started with cauliflower “bombs” - crunchy cauliflower in a spicy sauce, really yum. And we also had goat meatballs, Turkish ravioli with yoghurt sauce, spicy lamb soup and octopus with sweet potato. They served no alcohol but we enjoyed other drinks like a mint smash. Bill was the highest so far, 5300 Lira, well worth it though. Really satisfied, we opted out of dessert and walked through the bar street but didn’t find anything appealing, so we headed home to Chivas and a game of cards.
Day 9 Dalyan
It was Sunday and we expected the worst weather day… still dad suggested we get up early to go swim in the Med 😆 we left the villa around 7am and drove over 25 minutes to Oludeniz, a more famous beach destination. The place was quiet at that hour. We parked for free and saw the entry area to the blue lagoon, but it was closed. We walked down to the brown pebbly public beach on a cloudy cool day, and each took our turn to run into the ocean. It was certainly bracing, about 20 degrees C, but the longer we stayed in the cool blue turquoise water, the more we got used to it. There were some small waves in the otherwise calm bay, and not another tourist in sight.
We headed back for breakfast of scrambled eggs and fresh brewed coffee, before setting off on our main adventure for the day: Dalyan. It was about a 1h10 drive to the west, sometimes near the coast, sometimes through small and large Mediterranean towns.
Arriving in Dalyan, we immediately made our way to the boat cooperative along the river, to find out about boat options for the day. We were approached by a guy offering a private boat, saying he was a captain, with some negotiating he offered 3000 Lira for the boat, we said we’d think about it. The guy at the cooperative also tried to sell us a private boat, saying the public ones would take too long to fill and we’d wait a long time… Dad, our negotiator, went back to the original man and offered 2500 Lira, which was accepted. He walked us along the river past many many river boats.
We reached a decent sized covered boat, the Waterlilly, it had seats all around and a Turkish carpet at its centre. It could probably take close to 30 people at a push. We were handed over to the real captain who had long grey hair and didn’t speak much English. He expertly pulled out of his narrow berth and into the river. We had selected the option of going to Iztuzu (turtle) beach via the rock cut tombs. It was so nice having our own boat, we cruised through the reed lined channels, the sun coming out to warm us against the chill breeze.
The ten or more rock cut tombs were similar to others we’d seen, but dramatically carved into the mountainside opposite the river. We could see many had had columns but few remained. We could see the distinctly Lycian markings, curved and square shaped decorations on them.
We explored a bit, found a sheltered place to sit, and then decided to head back. Our man was waiting for us, and we returned the same way, the sun still shining on us at the front of the boat.
Back in Dalyan uncle John chose a direction to walk and we set off in search of lunch. We walked through a part filled with pubs and British retirees… then reached a quieter, more natural part where we were able to walk along the river and enjoy the scenery. At the outskirts of town, the restaurants were drying up so we chose a place called Serenity with tables directly above the river. The guy had a proper wood fired oven so we ordered pide, lahmacun (Turkish flatbread topped with meat) and pizza. Plus a burger for uncle John. Food was good. Local cats gathered around us, denying affection but demanding food. One jumped right up onto the railing above the river and dad couldn’t resist giving it some hamburger meat. When the owner asked if we enjoyed our meals, uncle John replied “well the cats certainly did” 🫣
It started raining and we decided to head home, it was my turn to drive that day and it wasn’t too easy in the rain but all worked out fine. We got cleaned up at the villa and then headed to Calis beach for dinner. I had spotted a restaurant called Zoi on our run that grabbed my attention. We arrived and it was still drizzling slightly. Despite the glass walls, the interior felt warm and almost “cosy” and it was filled with locals. We were warmly welcomed and our kind waiter even took us to the fridge to show the vast variety of cold starters (Meze) on offer.
We ordered a bottle of white wine to share, since it was a seafood restaurant. The sea bass for two was their signature dish so we ordered it to share, plus some shrimp in butter and garlic, calamari with eggplant purée, beetroot with celery and pomegranate, and artichokes in a delicious mustard sauce. The starters were great but oh my gosh, the sea bass was too amazing. Tender and moist and flavourful… truly fish doesn’t get much better than that!
For dessert we stopped at an ice cream shop I had seen on the way. It was more like a dessert emporium, offering almost any kind of dessert… we gorged on Turkish ice cream (even tahini flavour), baklava, choc eclairs and Bademli keşkül, a traditional Turkish almond-based milk pudding made from milk, sugar, rice flour, cornstarch, and ground almonds. All washed down with Turkish tea. On a sugar high, we headed home for sleep.
Day 10 Fethiye to Pammukkale
Woke up to a nice sunny day but still a bit of a chill in the air. We looked at the forecast and noticed fresh snow had fallen on the high mountain peaks. We set about packing up our luggage and making breakfast with the last of our supplies. Breakfast done, we packed the car and checked we hadn't left anything behind before driving to the Fethiye port and parking at the car park we had been using the last few days.
Walking over to the boats, it didn't take long to find tour operators trying to lure tourists for bay cruises. We left the negotiation to Dave and he didn't disappoint. He negotiated a private boat to take us out for a four hour cruise for EU 180. We walked along the waterside, passing dozens of boats, which were standing idle today but during high season would have been full of tourists. Eventually our tour operator handed us over to the captain of a large sized boat labeled "Angel". It was about 9:30 when we hopped on board and the captain, who spoke some English, and one crew member started making preparations to depart. The boat had a large undercover seating area and a sundeck above. It was too cool in the shade and soon we were out on the forecastle getting some sun.
Soon we were cruising out of the port and admiring the beautiful scenery all around as well the impressive yachts. En route the captain pointed out the Letoonia hotel which was one the first 5 star hotels built in the area and it looked like it would be an amazing place to stay. Ahead we could see the island in the middle of the bay that was just off Çalış beach. All along the coast there were beaches tucked away in the coves of the peninsula, largely deserted at this time of year. The captain also pointed out a few more of the resorts and explained development was kept to a minimum to preserve the natural habitat of peninsula. He also told us about an exclusive party Jeff Bezos had attended at Büyük Boncuklu Bay. Further along we reached Tarzan bay, so called because there was a popular rope swing. The water was beautifully clear and turquoise here, a dive boat was anchored here indicating it was a popular spot for diving.
A little further along the boat arrived a aquarium bay and the captain put down the anchor. It was a rocky bay, fringed with pine trees and the most incredible clear blue water. After changing into our swimming togs we jumped off the front of the boat. The water was a refreshing 20 deg. The captain gave us a scuba mask and we used it to look under the water and see the schools of fish. There was another boat in the bay but they didn't stay long, and they threw some bread overboard which attracted lots of fish making it interesting to watch from underwater. After a while it did start to feel cold after being in the cool water and we got out to enjoy some time in the sun to warm up again. We stayed a while longer in the bay before it was time to head back to port.
The journey back took a slightly different route further away from the shore and we took in the wider bay. We went back around the other way around the island in the bay, the captain told us that the island had been connected to the mainland before prior to an earthquake. Before long we arrived back at the port, it had been a great way to spend the morning and we were glad to have waited for the better weather.
We paid the captain and went to go and find lunch as everyone had an appetite after the cruise. We found a busy little restaurant serving donner kebab, and we quickly ordered. It seemed to be a family restaurant, and the owner was slaving away in front of a fire manually turning the lamb donner spit & chicken spit, as well as assembling the wraps and sandwiches. Soon we were enjoying our food which was delicious.
Bellies full we made our way back to the car and plotted our route to Pammukkale. As soon as we were out of Fethiye, the road climbed and we gained altitude rapidly. Soon we were driving in the mountains, on winding roads and it became cooler and overcast. To our surprise we saw snow on the mountain tops near our route. We drove on past small villages and towns until we finally reached Pammukkale. By the time we arrived it was already 5 pm and the weather was cold and overcast. We checked into the hotel and deliberated about going into the travertines & the ancient city of Hierapolis. In the end we decided to hold out for better weather the next day. We walked around the town a bit and getting our bearings.
Everyone was in the mood for a different cuisine to the Turkish food we had been eating, and settled on a Chinese restaurant. The restaurant had a lot of options, from Chinese, Korean, Malaysian and Japanese. We settled on a starter of spring rolls & pepper steak stir fry which was delicious and filling. Nearby was a restaurant that we planned to have breakfast and we checked with them they would be open at 7am.
Day 11 Road to Istanbul
Our last official day in Turkey and we woke up in Pammukkale a little earlier than expected, regardless of the 4:45am call to prayer which woke us every morning… the advantage was we opened the curtain and saw at least 25 hot air balloons right in front of our room.
We had decided to skip the hotel breakfast which started at 8am, as we were short on time and wanted to be inside Pammukkale travertines when it opened at 8:00. So we found the only restaurant in the town at opened early and showed up there at 7am, thankfully our man was there to let us in. We ordered Turkish coffee, Nescafé, tea, menemen (Turkish scrambled eggs with peppers, tomato and onion, yum), spinach and cheese gozleme (fried flatbread), omelette and a toastie. With extra bread of course.
Pammukkale, meaning “Cotton castle” is a surreal hillside of brilliant white limestone terraces formed by mineral-rich thermal waters cascading down the slope for thousands of years. Above the travertines lie the ruins of ancient Hierapolis, a Greco-Roman spa city built around the hot springs. We walked to the ticket office and paid EUR 30 per person. We entered at the gate near the town, which required us to walk up the limestone travertines to reach the ancient city above.
We were required to remove shoes and walk barefoot, it was still a little cloudy and chilly, and the water over the terraces was freezing at that point. Walking over the terraces felt really different - the white calcium carbonate structures were hard, and ridged, dry in places and wet in others. Soon we reached some pools with brilliant blue water in them. We had to cross one and I stumbled at a slippery part, soaking the bottoms of my rolled up jeans… after a while we reached warmer water, streaming over the white formations, relieving us of the pain and cold.
We continued on and found that the warm water was diverted in a narrow river channel. People all around us were dipping their feet to warm them and we followed suit. Eventually we reached the top and took about an hour to explore the Hierapolis ancient Roman city.
At the entrance to Hierapolis Archaeology Museum, the old Roman baths had been transformed into galleries filled with marble gods, emperors, dancers and athletes, alongside richly carved sarcophagi and funerary reliefs from the surrounding necropolis. Smooth white statues lined the halls beneath vaulted stone ceilings, while faded inscriptions and fragments of temples revealed the wealth and importance of the ancient thermal city. Another room held small artefacts found at the site - pottery, gold, coins… some even going back to the Neolithic period.
From there, the path led past the Apollo temple to the mysterious Plutonium (Pluto temple) at Hierapolis, the sacred grotto once believed to be an entrance to the underworld. Among the ruins stood a striking statue of Pluto (Hades), entwined with serpents and accompanied by the three-headed dog Cerberus, guardian of the dead in Roman/Greek mythology. This place was used for animal sacrifices, animals were thrown into the deadly vapours attached to a string and brought back dead. High above, the immense Roman theatre climbed the hillside in sweeping rows of pale stone.
We followed a narrow Roman road and wound downhill past the ruined basilica toward the imposing Frontinus Gate, whose towers once marked the ceremonial entrance to the city. Beyond it lay the acropolis, where scattered foundations, fallen columns and shattered blocks rested quietly above the wide plain. We finished at the necropolis, surrounded by stone tombs, sarcophagi and mausoleums. The road had led us nicely to a viewpoint of the travertines and we walked along a wooden walkway, enjoying the pools filled with ice blue water.
We finished our experience at the Cleopatra pools, where we paid an additional EUR 12 entrance fee. The place had changed so much since Werner and I had first visited 20 years ago! A large structure now stood in front of the pools, with a restaurant, ticket office, and the changing facilities (which were not great). We changed, left our possessions in the lockers, and hopped into the wonderfully warm thermal pool. The best part about these pools was the broken Roman pillars scattered inside them. We wallowed for a while but sadly had to move on, Istanbul was calling and it was a loooong drive.
Back at the car just after 11:00, we grabbed ice creams then started our long, approximately 7 hour journey to Istanbul. It was pretty scenic under the sun, with many vineyards and olive groves on either side of the road. At some point we joined a major toll road and were allowed to drive at 140 km/h, wow. We stopped at a service point for lunch and had “chicken world”, not bad, and bought some last gifts.
From here our drive to Istanbul was unremarkable. We dropped Dad and Uncle John off at a metro station, as they were continuing on for a few days in Istanbul and needed to reach a hotel in the tourist area. It was a sad goodbye as we didn’t know when we’d see my amazing uncle again…
We drove through much traffic and finished at Istanbul airport, dropped off our rental car, and prepared to return back to normal life, after a wonderful trip full of experiences.
