Saturday, 17 May 2014

Namibia Day 14 - Seals and Fishermen

For our last day on the coast we decide to take a drive up north. Along the way, we stop at a really strange little town, called Wlotskasbaken. There are some funny houses, not even close to the sea, on very dry and dusty pieces of land, no fences or anything. The houses seem almost a parody - they are painted extremely bright colours, each has its own water tank, and many have a decorative painted boat in front. It is unlike anything we have ever seen.










Next we reach a shipwreck, very close to the shore, and check it out. We continue past Henties to try to reach Cape Cross a little earlier. There is a thick cloud of fog sitting over the ocean and we are not sure if it will move in closer. The road is excellent, actually made of salt. The scenery on the sides of the road is dry and bleak - sandy and lifeless...



We reach Cape Cross and stop at the office to pay. It is N$60 per person plus N$10 for the car. We finish the last of our Namibian notes and coins... We drive around to the seal colony, and take a walk along the newly built walkway. There are seals everywhere, absolutely everywhere, and there must be literally thousands of them... Lying around on rocks, hopping along the sand, swimming in the ocean. And the noise is a cacaphony - pups bleating like sheep, adults roaring, belching and barking. And don't get me started on the smell... It's an assault on the senses but it's awesome.
















We check out the cross, placed by Diogo Cao to claim the land for Portugal. And then head to a picnic spot by a beautiful beach, the cormorants sunning themselves on the rocks. We briefly check out the new Cape Cross Lodge, and start our journey back down to Henties Bay. On the way, we stop for lichen fields, which are protected, but not much to look at.



















We reach Henties and have a drive around town. It is now very large, but there is still not that much on offer. We finally find a quaint little restaurant, Fishy Corner, and stop for a snack. There is the usual confusion with the waitress but I actually check her order slip and after re-adding my fish and chips, everything seems ok. But the starters come way ahead of the other dishes, even though we specifically asked for them to come at the same time, oh well! We have some prawn skewers, mussel soup and two plates of fish and chips, which are huge, everything is quite good, and the hake is fresh. Unfortunately they have run out of kabeljou and steenbra, which is what we were hoping for.



We head back to Swakopmund to get ready for dinner. Then we go to the Jetty 1905 restaurant for our 7:00 booking. We realise we should have booked for earlier, and come for the sunset, but that hadn't occurred to us at the time! The walk across the long jetty in the dark, with the wind whipping around us is tough going, but the restaurant at the end is warm and welcoming, and buzzing with an excited atmosphere. We are given a nice table, looking over the water which is dotted with resting seagulls.


We skip starters and order mains - Swakopmunder schnitzels, seared tuna, seafood kebabs and sirloin. Most dishes are reasonably priced but the tuna is a bit pricey at R185. It isn't all that worth it at that price - the tuna is perfectly cooked but the mash is lumpy and no veg is served with the dish. The sirloin seems to be the winner. The schnitzels cause confusion as they are served with what looks like shoestring fries, but seem too limp and soggy, they turn out to be spetzle, a German noodle, fried in butter. For dessert we try the Mozart cake - layers of cream, hazelnuts and meringue, really delicious.


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Saturday, 3 May 2014

Namibia Day 13 - Quads and Dunes

We have a delicious breakfast of French toast and head out early for quad biking, dropping Mom and Gitti off at the promenade for their walk. It's a really foggy day In Swakopmund and we wonder whether it will cause us any problems. Desert Explorers had told us to be there at 8:00, but when we arrive they are not ready for us at all. The guide has not arrived yet and they are still readying the quads. We sign indemnities, pay N$450 for the 90 minute experience and kill time by reading about Brangelina's visit to Namibia and Desert Explorers...

Soon Ben arrives and kits us up with helmets. He gives a very brief instruction on how to drive the 250cc manual quads, and we head off into the dunes. We all get the hang of the 5 gears of the quads pretty quickly, and they have plenty of vooma to power us up the dunes. He starts taking us around more challenging parts, racing up a dune and then doing a sharp turn. We follow his tracks, staying single file to minimize the damage to the desert.



At one point Peter loses momentum on a tricky uphill, and he and I both get stuck in the deep sand. Ben comes back to saves us, reversing the quads for us. He doesn't seem that keen to teach us to reverse. Next we stop for a break, and admire the surroundings. There are just dunes, dunes and more dunes everywhere, and nothing else to be seen. Not a creature or a spot of vegetation. The sun is out, and the sky a brilliant blue. And we pose for some photies.















Continuing on, we gain confidence and speed over and around the beautiful white dunes. Towards the end, we encounter the mist again, and it is kind of eerie riding through it. For me the experience is over a bit soon, but the others feel 90 minutes was just right. We park our quads and head back into Swakop to pick up the ladies.






By this time, we are lus for coffee, and head for the Village Cafe on the main road. Fom the outside it looks small, but it's actually a huge place with an outdoor area at the back. It has a really quirky feel and funky colourful decor. One of the tables is inside an old kombi. We order coffees, rusks, and carrot and cheese cakes and melkterts, everything is great.















We decide to do some shopping and walk around town a bit. After checking out a few souvenir stores, we head to the lighthouse and it's market, and walk down the Mole, which juts out into the sea. A large hotel is being built here, which will have awesome views once finished. We walk down the promenade to the Tug restaurant, which is built out of a real tug boat, and turn up one of the streets to check out some of the old buildings. One is the Kaserne - it used to be a barracks used by the company that built the jetty, now a hostel.















We shop a bit more and then head home for a delicious lunch of quesadillas. We relax for a while and then decide to walk to the Vogelstrand beach. It is a fair walk, past many posh and modern houses in this new upmarket suburb. Most look empty. We reach the beach and discover that it is made up of large grey pebbles, and there are some huge mussel shells. The sun is setting and a fisherman seems to be catching nearby.









Later that evening we enjoy a delicious game potjie, made with red wine, dried fruit, mushrooms, pumpkin, onions, potatoes and carrots. And mopped up with fresh bread and washed down with Jerepigo.

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Location:Swakopmund, Namibia

Namibia Day 12 - a Scenic Drive to Swakop

After a quick breakfast we pack up again and go to say goodbye to the friendly oryx. He is far away and feeling a bit less friendly today so unfortunately doesn't come to eat the apples we have brought. We head out on the C14 towards Walvis bay. The route again goes through the Namib Naukluft park, and we will go through two mountain passes.

The first excitement en route is an enormous herd of springbok, maybe 200+, all standing in the road. They part like the Red Sea as we cautiously drive through. Next we spot some bright orange dunes, covered in grass, and also a few curious looking oryxes. Further down we spot a group of massive birds flying, and as they land we realise they are vultures.












We cross the Tropic of Capricorn, and then tackle to Gaub and Kuiseb passes, stopping at a viewpoint for pics and enjoying the Kuiseb canyon. The rock formations here are truly fascinating, but I am torn between enjoying the scenery and avoiding the plague of crickets littering the road. After the passes, the surroundings just get drier and drier, until there is just light coloured sand. Some dunes appear, and eventually we reach dune 7, supposedly the highest dune.













Soon we are pulling into Walvis bay, and we drive around a little bit, starting with the dodgy end of town and ending up at the waterfront. We pull into the raft restaurant a little early for lunch, so we head to the bar/bistro and all order chocolate milkshakes. The Raft is built on a jetty out into the ocean. There is good wifi here so we relax a while, enjoying the fantastic view and a seal splashing nearby. Eventually we order fish n chips, a bushman dim sum and I try the raft sushi special - a California roll tempura battered and fried.









Feeling full, we continue exploring the town a little, it's pretty big. We drive towards the salt works, and in this road the houses are large and modern with great sea views. We reach a wetland area and enjoy the great bird life, including oyster catchers with bright red bills, pelicans and flamingoes. We check out the giant mounds of gleaming white salt, and then drive back, on our way to Swakopmund.






Just before we enter the city, we stop off at Desert Explorers to book our quad biking for the next day. After being sent from pillar to post, we eventually end up at the Paua guesthouse, in the Northern Vogelstrand suburb of Swakop. We meet Levi, who gives us the keys and shows us around. We have a three bedroom house, with a good kitchen, indoor braai area, lounge, two bedrooms on the ground floor and a large bedroom on the first floor. There is even an infrared sauna!









We settle in and then head into town to find supplies. The Woolies that we were so looking forward to it pretty disappointing, as it has nothing fresh, but we do buy two curry sauces for the evening meal. We head to Pick n Pay, which has a better selection, for the rest of our supplies. Next we check out the waterfront, which has a lovely promenade, lighthouse , and a very long and wide jetty. The sunset is amazing but the wind is bitingly cold. We book the restaurant at the end, Jetty 1905, for our last meal.



Back at the house we enjoy Korma and Tikka curries with rice.




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Location:Swakopmund, Namibia