Namibia Day 5 - Forests and Playgrounds

We have a really early start this morning, and pack up the entire camp before 6:00. We have just enough time for a cup of tea, before the Sanfords arrive, and we head north. The sunrise is again spectactular and we enjoy it on the last stretch of dirt road. Before long, we are on the tarred B3 road, heading for Keetmanshoop. The plan is the get the car checked out there, and see some of the sights in the area.

We arrive in Keetmanshoop, it's a big city, possibly the second largest after Windhoek, but still small by South African standards. It has everything we could need, and we find the right garage fairly easily. The car needs a bit more time, so we leave Werner behind and the rest of us head to the Kokerboom forest, about 13km away.

We pull into an office area and pay the N$55 per person to enter the "forest". Gitti has stayed here before, and recognizes the chalet they had. She also asked the lady in the office about a very friendly warthog that they encountered here last time. The woman becomes quite emotional, and tells Gitti all about her precious warthog and how he died. She really loves animals, and also had 9 border collies and many other dogs, including a 3 legged pug. She says they are all working dogs, even if some of them just have the job of warming her heart...







We drive around towards the forest, and with surprise spot 2 cheetahs behind a fence. They are both desperately trying to get at a white donkey on the other side of the fence, who is standing there oblivious to the danger! As we pull up, the donkey comes to greet us, he is so friendly and loves having his nose rubbed. The cheetahs spot another donkey and head towards it, and we reverse to stay with them. The white donkey is quite perturbed that we are reversing away from it, and almost chews on our bonnet trying to stay with us.















We drive further around to an area where there is a campsite. There are the cutest squirrels with fat tails running around and standing up on their hind legs. We finally reach the entrance to the Kokerboom forest. A Kokerboom is a quiver tree - a member of the aloe family that grows fairly large. The name comes from the fact that the San used to use the bark to make quivers for their arrows.






We spend a while wandering through the forest. It's not a forest in the traditional sense, but this is definitely by far the largest number of quiver trees we have seen together in on place. We spot a whole family of dassies sitting on a couple of rocks, and spread out to photograph the trees. They are really beautiful and there are other interesting plants as well. The sky is an amazing blue and the sun is starting to beat down on us. We head out and make our way to the Giant's Playground, which is also included in the entrance ticket.
















We drive a few kms further down the sand road, and reach the parking for the Giant's Playground. We walk in, following the signposts. We find ourselves surrounded by enormous rock formations, apparently formed by a volcano that erupted but the lava never really spilled out - it hardened again in the ground. The formations are made up of many huge boulders, all somehow precariously balancing on one another, looking a little like a child's blocks, but on a giant scale.



















Dad and I follow the full walking path, it only takes 15 minutes or so. Then back to Keetmanshoop to pick up Werner. From here we have about a 4 hour drive to Luderitz. We contemplate stopping for a picnic, but it is getting a little late, so we decide to push on all the way.

On the way, we spot a few of the famous desert horses of the region. The scenery starts to change and we see that it is getting drier and drier. Eventually we reach the ghost town of Kolmanskop, surrounded by beautiful small white sand dunes, in crescent shapes along the road. The wind is already fierce here, blowing ribbons of sand across the road. Finally we arrive in Luderitz and the sun is shining fiercely, the aircon can barely keep up.








We drive through the small seaside town's roads, some dirt and some tar, and eventually find Zum Anker, our home for the next two days. We meet the owner Debbie there, who warmly welcomes us, and shows us around the huge 4 bedroom "apartment". It's more like a house, with 3 bathrooms, a dining area, lounge with dstv, large kitchen, braai and outdoor seating area. Very nice.




Once we are settled in and have celebrated with a drink outside, we hop into the car to explore the town and get some provisions. We find the Spar and buy chicken and veg so that dad can make an exotic laksa soup. We also find the fish shop, but unfortunately they don't have anything fresh today, so we promise to come back.




We take a drive out to shark island, not really an island at all but an extension of Luderitz. As we get out, the wind is howling like crazy and blowing our hair all over, we have a little walk around and admire those brave enough to camp here. We also check out the lighthouse, which Gitti stayed in many years ago. The view over Luderitz as the sun starts to set is spectacular.




















Next we drive around a bit more, and end up at the Felsenkirche, or church on the rock. It is a beautiful church, visible from all around Luderitz as it has a high position on the rocks above the town. We visit the inside, no entry fee just a donation. It is well worth it to see the exquisite stained glass windows all around, depicting scenes from Christ's ministry. We also admire a street of brightly coloured houses.
























Back at the house, we cook up a storm and enjoy a delicious meal, with chocolate liqueur for dessert. We finish up our evening with a game of scrabble, and Dad beats us all.

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Location:Keetmanshoop, Namibia

Namibia Day 4 - Chilling at the Lodge

We wake up at a normal hour, and enjoy a relaxed morning, with freshly brewed plunger coffee, and a delicious fry up of eggs, bacon, mushrooms, onions and English muffins. We decide to walk off the excess with a hike down the dry riverbed. There is no water in the river, and the dry soft sand is difficult to walk on, but we enjoy the birds and vegetation.




























Back at camp, we head to the pool for a swim, it's a bit colder than expected but really refreshing. We relax a bit, chatting to an American lady who lives in Ethiopia, and admiring an Acacia Pied Barbet eating dates from a nearby palm. After a swim we are ready for lunch, delicious jaffles filled with combinations of tuna, sweetcorn, beans and cheese.








After lunch we drive the 14km to the Canyon lodge to spend the afternoon with my folks. The lodge is really beautiful, laid out amongst enormous rock formations, with many paths leading between the units. We head down to the pool and relax there for quite a while, chatting, swimming and snoozing on the comfortable recliners.














Close to sunset, it is time for a hike up the nearby hill. We take a shortcut and make it to the top before the rest of the lodge guests, securing us the best position from which to watch the sunset. The views are awesome, we can see all the way to the Canyon village, another accommodation option, and we look down on the pristine green lawns of the Canyon Lodge. The sun starts to set and lights the sky aflame with pinks and golds and oranges.















As everyone else starts heading back down, Werner and I sit just a little longer, long enough to spot an owl on one of the nearby rocks. Eventually the staff ask if we are ok... And we decide to head down as well, tummies growling in anticipation of dinner. We are given a beautiful outside table, with views over the dessert gardens of the lodge, all beautifully lit up. Our starter is seafood in phyllo pastry, and that is followed by a buffet, including butternut soup, salads, pork in mustard sauce and leg of lamb. Dessert is a guava trifle of sorts, all very nice.












After dinner we drive back to our campsite at the Roadhouse, getting a little lost along the way in the darkness, but also admiring the amazing stars painted across the pitch black sky.

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Location:Canyon Lodge, Namibia

Namibia Day 3 - Canyons and hotsprings

We wake up a little later than expected, having slept well despite various noises in the night, including jackals crying and a swarm of bees buzzing in our tree. We warm up a batch of hot cross buns on the gas cooker and make filter coffee. It takes us a while to clean up the dishes, and pack up the camp gear before we finally get in the car to go and meet the Sanford's, by the time we get there it is already 8:30am. The canyon lodge is nestled between a group of rocky outcrops, huge boulders piled up on top of each other. The reception gardens welcome us, an oasis of green in the thirsty desert, verdant green lawns with large indigenous trees, a rock garden featuring succulents and cactuses, and some bougainvilleas against the walls.
















































The staff direct us to the Sanford's chalet, we follow cobbled pathways past a well, a gnarled ancient tree, and a put-put course set in the manicured lawns. We spend some time swapping stories of the time apart and admiring the natural stone clad thatched chalet built partially into the surrounding boulders.











We head for the bakkies and follow the road back to Hobas, little more than an official looking building and a campsite. Passing through the boom and making a right turn we drive a little further until we reach the fish river canyon main lookout point, and impressive structure offering some shade and seating. We make our way to the edge and are rewarded with uninterrupted views of the vast canyon before us. The landscape falls away and plunges to the river cutting its way through the canyon. We snap away trying to capture the awesome views.
















































Next we visit some more of the viewpoints situated along the edge of the canyon, including the start of the fish river hike. My dad recounts his experience of the 5 day walk, tough but rewarding, we contemplate doing it one day. We can just make out the steep track winding down to the base of the canyon where the trail actually starts!
























We visit a few more viewpoints before we finally get canyon fatigue and the heat gets too much for us, there is no shade anywhere.























We head for Ai-ais via Hobas, where a rude official confronts us about not paying our entry fee of R75 per person, apparently we have been reported to the police. Trying to avoid being flagged up on Namibia's most wanted we apologies for the honest mistake (there we no clear signs) which does not seem to placate the official, we pay the fee and drive on.

On the road we pick up some weird engine problems with the Steed but we manage to keep it going. Ai-ais lies deep within the canyon, the end of the fish river hike. It's hot, real hot, like the valley is a trapping all the suns midafternoon heat. The palm fringed resort looks quite busy, a lot of campers.























We pull up at the restaurant and make a beeline for the shade and order lunch of fish and chips and cold drinks. Refreshed, we pay our day visitor fees, don our swimming cozzies and take a swim in the indoor warm and cool pools. It seems the resort has been remodeled somewhat and actually looks nice and modern. Interestingly the adjacent rooms open directly onto the indoor pools. We decide try out the outdoor pool hoping it is cool, but it turns out to be the warmest one of all! We fill up with diesel and drive back to the roadhouse.























After a drink at the campsite we decide to tackle the local 4km hike, it seemed like a good idea at the time as it was getting cooler. The views from the koppie above the camp were worth the climb and we carried on along the track.























Soon it started to get really dark as the sun sank below the horizon and we decided to turn back, and only just managed to follow the path in the gathering darkness. What a relief, we were all worried we might have had to spend a night out under the stars. After a few drinks to settle the nerves, we quickly made a fire and braaied the boerewors before the Dave and Renate arrived. We had a wonderful dinner and soon after were fast asleep.

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