Peru Day 13 - Andean Explorer - Cusco to Puno

Woke up at 6am, got ready and had breakfast at the Casa Andina Hotel. Around 7:30 our transfer collected us and within 15 minutes we were at the train station. Along the way we noticed that the tickets are worth US$233, pretty pricey, but included in our tour anyway. We presented our tickets and boarded the Andean Explorer. The experience was like stepping back in time to the golden age of rail travel. The coach interior was all wood paneling and brass, comfortable seats, carpet floors, antique photos decorated the walls. We found our seats and stowed our bags in overhead compartments. Going from the rough conditions of the Inca trail to this opulence was was a welcome change. We made ourselves comfortable and took in the ambience.

Soothing pan pipe music filled the air (although this eventually became somewhat irritating). Soon the steam engine fired up and pulled us slowly out of the station. Occasionally the train would let out a congenial toot to warn people of its approach. Buildings often seemed to be right next to the tracks. The train picked up speed as we made our way through the outlying suburbs of Cuzco. Gradually the adobe buildings began to thin out making way for farmland. The train followed the course of the santa rosa river through the valley, the mountains towering over us on either side. It was a perfect day, the vast deep blue sky stretched over us punctuated with the occasional wispy cloud. 

We left our seats and made our way to the observation carriage. This carriage had large glass windows on the roof and sides, and was completely open at the rear to allow optimal views of the scenery. We stood for a while marveling at the mountains, river and plains around us. 

Then we made our way to the coffee bar carriage which featured a bar and comfy couches. We were by far some of the youngest passengers, most of the people in the dining car seemed to be retired or nearing retirement. We sat for a while snacking on spicy roasted corns before making our way back to our seats. 

Immaculately dressed attendants were continuously working the aisles, taking orders for refreshments. Most drinks were not included in the ticket price. But we were at least given a complimentary pisco sours before we placed our order for our selection for lunch, spinach soup, broiled sirloin steak and trout with potatoes and vegetables. 

A bit later a fashion show was held in the dining car, showing off shawls, scarves and drapes made of fine alpaca wool. A bit of a farce to sell textiles really... This was accompanied by some live traditional music played by an energetic band. The fashion show was followed by some more traditional music played with guitars and pan pipes and a flamboyantly dressed dancer executing a well practiced but limited dance routine. 

The train proceeded through ever more agricultural land. We observed typical pastoral scenes, farmers threshing with donkeys, corn drying, cows and sheep grazing, people working the fields. Occasionally we would pass through a small settlement, the friendly children waving us along and adorable dogs running after the train.

The mountains seemed to get ever higher, snow capped peaks overhead. Large herds of wooly llama and alpaca graced the seemingly barren altoplano. 

At the highest point of the train journey, at 4319 meters above sea level, the train stopped at La Raya. We stepped out into the fresh mountain breeze to stretch our legs. A few traders had set up stalls here, selling the usual assortment of alpaca clothing, cloths and paraphernalia. There is also a small simple spanish adobe whitewashed style church here. Some tourists stopped for photos with an ancient looking Inca woman dressed in traditional clothing, multicolored dress and brown bowler hat. The train tooted and we made our way back onto the Andean explorer.

Lunch followed shortly after. The starter spinach soup was excellent. Almost everyone seemed to be using the wrong silverware for buttering their rolls which led to much ribbing and joking about our lack of etiquette. The attendants performed an impressive synchronized delivery and removal of our dishes. The mains arrived and what they lacked in size they made up for in taste. The dessert consisted of a three layered chocolate mouse. 

After lunch we were invited to a cocktail mixing demonstration. The barman explained how to mix the famous pisco sour. First you take a cocktail shaker and fill it with 7 to 8 blocks of ice, followed by 3 ounces of pisco, 2 ounces of sugar syrup solution, 1 ounce of lime juice, 1 ounce of egg white. Then you shake for 15 seconds, pour into a glass and garnish with 3 drops of angostura bitters. Delicious! After the demonstration, it was happy hour (two for the price of one!) and Nicki & Wendy ordered a piscopolitan and a chilcano (pisco and ginger beer). Alcohol is very effective at altitude! 

Shortly after the demonstration, another traditional band set up in the dining car and started to play music with banjo, guitar and long pan pipes. The display was impressive and a dancer joined the party. The dancer, clothed in an elaborate el diablo costume complete with dragon headdress and gold breastplate invited some volunteers to dance and Bev and Nicki were unable to escape while Wendy pretended to take photos! She did take some for blackmail material.

It started to get dark and we returned to our seats to relax for the the rest of the journey. The attendants brought round a delicious peach mocktail, followed by tea and biscuits. 

We passed through a big town, the markets next to the track and even on the tracks offering everything from power tools, exotic foods, haircuts to getting your fortune told. 

The train rolled into Puno and we disembarked, grabbed our bags and met our co-ordinator Veronica. The transfer to the hotel Casa Andina Tikarani took only 15 minutes. Veronica briefed us on the itinerary for the next few days after which we went to our rooms to get cleaned up and settled in before dinner. At 8pm we went out for dinner. We walked for 10 minutes to the plaza de Armas, and settled on Mojsa restaurant opposite the cathedral. 

The restaurant offered traditional Andean food, we ordered the yellow chilli chicken (aji de galina) and mince stuffed hot pepper (rocotto rellena). Some of us also ordered a delicious lemon, coca & honey tea. After dinner we headed back to the hotel, stopping to pick up some groceries for our home stay planned for the next day.