We are on our way to Ollantaytambo, but before leaving Cusco we pick up a whole bunch of porters. The smell of coca is strong as they hop on with greetings of "buenos dias". It's about 2 hours to Ollantaytambo (Oliver Tambo as we call it :), and we do get some shut eye. It is drizzling lightly and we hope for better weather once we start walking. At Ollantaytambo we get out for quick toilet breaks, last purchases and ATM withdrawals. We meet the assistant guide, "Ever". We are all ready, but we have to wait for the driver to open the bus, and then wait another half an hour for the porters to finish breakfast... I guess the guys are gonna need their energy.
The trip from there to Km82, the start of the Inca trail, is another hour or so, and its a bit scary! We are extremely close to the cliff side of the river in our large bus, and the road is basically a single lane. At one point we have to reverse back a lot to let another vehicle pass, and the bus lurches backwards, almost into the river! Jonathan assures us the driver has done this hundreds of times before and we don't need to worry!
We arrive at Km82, at 2600m, and watch as the porters start packing immediately. We are a bit nervous as we are not sure whether any of our bags will be rejected for being too heavy! But the porters just chuck many of our duffel bags into one huge bag and weigh that huge bag, seems there are no issues. We get ourselves ready and soon Jonathan is starting to lead us on. There are a few more shops here to buy snacks and water, and lots of ladies selling ponchos. The below map gives an idea of the trail we will follow:
We arrive at the control point, and Jonathan calls us each by name. We pass through fairly quickly, showing passports, and we get a stamp in our passports if we want. Jonathan says we can get a total of 4 stamps, one for each day of the Inca trail. Next we cross a bridge and reach the famous start point for a group photo: the "Camino Inca - Inca Trail" sign. The group is 14 people, as follows: Kiera and Neil (UK), Wendy, Dad (SA), Mike and Sandy Morrison (NZ), Lorna and Brendon (Aus), Michelle (USA) and we are joined by two Young Danish guys, Mikkel and Justin. And of course Van and Nix :)
Jonathan says that for the next few days, we will be a family, and we need to support each other. He suggests we select a team name. He comes up with "Pumas", and gathers us all to put our hands together for a war cry of "Pumas!". He's a great guy with a very positive and supportive attitude.
We start our walk, the weather seems to be improving, it's cloudy and cool but not bad. Jonathan says the weather depends on the feeling of the group, so hopefully it will improve! The first part of the walk is quite pleasant, some flat areas - we call them Inca flat as the Inca trail doesn't actually have ANY real flat areas. But a moderate uphill is considered flat ;) We watch as many porters start to pass us, carrying their huge packs (must be 20-25kg each) and practically running the trail. Apparently the incas used to cover the distance in less than 8 hours, it will take us 4 gruelling days... To see if the Inca time was possible, the Peruvian government arranged a race a few years ago. The winner completed it in just over 4 hours!! Even Jonathan managed to get a time of 5 1/2 hours. Amazing.
Jonathan shows us many things along the way - cochineal the incas used for lipstick (and its still an ingredient in western lipsticks today), beautiful birds, and eventually we come across the first inca site, Wilkarakay, which we can see in the distance and Jonathan explains its significance.
After a good morning walk we arrive at the lunch stop at Hatunchaca (2950m). Our porter is waiting for us with a yellow flag, and he shows us to the site where they have set up dining tents with a long table and small stools. There are also hand washing bowls with soap. 
There are animals walking around everywhere: dogs, cats, chickens... Feels as if this is someone's property. We sit down for lunch and get to know everyone a bit better. Soon the food starts coming, and we are amazed at what the cook has come up with: freshly fried nachos with delicious guacamole for starters, followed by a noodle soup and then huge platters of spaghetti pasta. It is far too much and we will never be able to finish it, Jonathan assures us the porters will finish whatever is left. The cook also has the added challenge of catering for one vegetarian and one gluten free, and he does a good job of this as well.
After lunch we are offered tea - most of us have coca tea to help with the altitude and give energy. This is made by placing the leaves as is, in boiling water, and is quite nice, some people enjoy it with a little sugar. We also check out the toilet that the porters have brought along for us - its a small tent with a flush toilet inside. We have been able to have this as Uncle John needed an extra porter to carry his bag, due to an op he had recently. The porter had some extra space, and Chimu arranged a toilet at our request. It ends up being one of the most wonderful things on the trip...
We carry on with our walk, regretting overeating! The trail starts getting steeper and we rest quite frequently, trying to give the others time to catch up. There are still small stalls to buy chocolates and drinks, and Pringles (for Michelle!).
We walk for at least 4-5 hours, and for the last hour or two we start to spread out, as it is starting to get dark and we just want to get there... The Danes, Van and Michelle arrive first, and Wendy, Uncle John and I arrive soon after, followed by my Dad. We manage to just beat the dark. Brendon and Lorna, and the Morrisons arrive after dark, Jonathan had arranged to take porters with flashlights back with him. The porters end up half carrying Sandy as she is really not feeling well. We all clap and cheer as the last members of our puma family arrive.
We're camping at Yuncachimpa (3300m). We've picked our tents - each two person tents and Wendy and Michelle are lucky to have their own. We have wet wipe showers and change into something clean and warm. Soon it's time for tea, and we are served hot chocolate and popcorn, plus a variety of teas or coffee. Soon dinner is served and its again another 3 course feast, with delicious creamed corn soup as the highlight. After dinner and more tea, Jonathan briefs us on the plan for tomorrow - the toughest day of the trek. He also asks how much water we will need for the next day so that the porters can prepare it for us. We are all pretty tired, so we head to bed fairly early.
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